New Potato Cake

Fennel tops and fresh onions

Potatoes formed into a shape and given a crispy edge are food of the gods. From chips and hash browns, to rosti or Pommes Anna, the golden crisp crunch is unmistakable. The summer doesn’t always pay enough attention to this kind of food, but the potato varieties available through the summer before the skins set are jam packed with flavour and only need a wash.

Fennel is a fickle vegetable, prone to bolting or being a little tough, but the tops are always a freebie I’m happy to have. With the unmistakable aniseed flavour with a more robust structure when compared to the herb or dill, fennel tops are ideal for cooking.

As my restaurant days taught me, work in three’s or fives’ and the perfect partner to fennel tops and new potatoes are fresh onions. Before they are laid down and dried, onions display much of their sweetness as the acid has yet to develop, masking any subtilties that the vegetable once had. As well as this, fresh onion tops give another 2 for 1 greatly received.

Serves 4
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
250g +/- charlotte potatoes (or similar)
2 fresh onions
Tops of at least 1 fennel
A generous thumb of butter
60g cheddar (optional)
Fresh ground black pepper
1tsp sea salt flakes
Rapeseed oil

1. Begin by giving the potatoes a wash and scrub if necessary, most of the time a wipe with your hands is enough. The cut them all to match the size of the smallest one so they cook evenly. Boil in plenty of water until tender.
2. Drain and leave to steam dry in the colander. Do not worry if some fall apart.
3. Remove the tops from the fennel and chop, then do the same with the onions. Then finely slice the onion before adding everything to a bowl with the potato. 
4. Add the butter and season before grating in the cheese.
5. Give the mixture a bit of a squash with a potato masher, or the back of a fork, making sure to leave a few decent chunks. You can get your hands in and squidge everything together if you like. 
6. Heat a generous puddle of rapeseed oil in a frying pan until it begins to shimmer.
7. Form the mix into 8 smaller patties or 4 larger ones, then lightly dust with plain flour before frying. Allow the first side to become a rich golden colour before turning and serving. 

Serve with a SLF salad bag and honey mustard dressing

Chef Notes:

1. This recipe is really versatile. Instead of cheddar use a couple of fillets of smoked mackerel or trout to make a delicious fishcake.
2. Do not be tempted to mash the potatoes as this will make a gloopy mess. A light crush and a good steam will mean the potato can soak up all the juices and naturally hold together.

Robin Popham
Chef at ‘Create Terroir’ and Sandy Lane Farm veg box customer